Wigan

“Immense sales of cheap readymade meat pies,” scoffed George Orwell. But for many Wiganers pies are more important than piers or politics. The rugby team’s nickname, “the pie-eaters” allegedly refers to the starving Wigan miners who were the first to return to work during the 1926 General Strike. Leigh miners called their rivals “pie eaters” to remind them they had eaten humble pie and been less resilient than other picketers. As the son of a St Helens miner, I’m inclined to agree.

Good pies are widely available across the borough, at the big local chain Galloways (est 1971), and at Whittakers of Tyldesley (1958), Greenhalghs (1957, but more Bolton than Wigan), Dawsons (1912) of Atherton and award-winning Baldy’s (2021), which recently made headlines for a lamb and Uncle Joe’s Mint Ball flavour pie – the “most Wigan thing ever”. This last recently announced plans to close its store and become a “dark kitchen” in the face of high energy bills. Sadly, Poole’s Pies (1847), which once supplied vital half-time victuals to spectators at Wigan Athletic, ceased trading in 2018.

I love a good pie. But so does everyone. Artisan bakers have turned the ancient artefact into something to show off. What I like about Wigan’s attitude to them is that it’s all about the eating, because all pies are, ultimately, humble. Melton Mowbray may be the home of the aspic-swaddled British Pie Awards – judged on 8 March during British Pie Week – but Wigan, specifically Harry’s Bar, inside the old Flemish-bricked Clarence Hotel, hosts the World Pie Eating Championship. The date for this year’s event is still undecided as last year’s was delayed by transport strikes till the end of January 2023. Locals are always happy to guide tourists through the tradition of eating a pie inside a barm cake, which goes by the name of Wigan kebab, Wiganburger or slappy. Steak pudding is “Babby’s yed”, best washed down with mushy peas or their runny residue, known as pea wet.

Wigan is a handsome town thanks to its Victorian heritage, the massive Trencherfield Mill, two railway lines, a major Leeds & Liverpool Canal junction, and surviving industrial buildings – not least the William Santus & Co toffee factory (of mint balls fame) on Dorning Street.

It’s also worth looking for things that have gone. Wigan Flashes is a green and mossy Shangri-la born of mining subsidence and rewilding. The Lancashire Mining Museum is a dynamic memorial to the once-vital coalfield, and contains the only surviving intact pit headgear and engine house in the county.

Things to see: Mab’s Cross, Mesnes Park, Museum of Wigan Life